Five minute proofing

 

On this blog, and certainly during thousands of meetings with clients, we refer to the concept of “five minute proofing” your most precious belongings.

We try very hard to remind people that an alarm system is not, in and of itself, a “security system”. Your alarm is just one tool that is a part of your overall security system which also includes physical security devices such as proper locks, deadbolts, window latches as well as a myriad of other things like lighting, trimming your hedges and keeping your side gates locked.

The goal is to trigger your alarm as soon as possible in order to generate an immediate response… that’s it. It is not a deterrent in and of itself (despite what most other security companies will try to suggest). A properly designed and installed alarm is a tool that will provide information that has a very short shelf life. The trick is, how soon is the information provided by your alarm dealt with?

For most of our clients, Provident guarantees a five minute response to any alarm signal. This response service should become the centre of your security plan, around which everything else revolves. Because we know that we can get to your place within five minutes, you need to ensure that from the point at which your alarm trips and sends us a signal, it will take a burglar at least five minutes to get to what you are trying to protect.

Essentially, your two part goal is to a) slow them down, and b) ensure that your alarm is detecting an attempted burglary as soon as possible.

Here is an incomplete list, in no particular order, of some ways that you can achieve both:

1. Reduce your alarm delay time (the time that you are given to get from your entry door to your keypad). Typically, most people’s delay time is 30 seconds or longer… how much time do you really need? 10 seconds? Let us know and we can re-program your system. To eliminate the delay completely, consider using a remote keyfob to turn off your alarm before you even open the door.

2. Install glassbreak detectors (Glassbreak detectors are acoustic sensors that pick up the sound of breaking glass. Typically, one glassbreak detector is good enough for an entire room. They are the only detector that will detect a burglar while he is still standing outside)… do not rely on a motion detector as your first line of defence.

3. Install window blocks.

4. Install a deadbolt on your master bedroom door (this does not need to be a high security lock… a basic model from Kerrisdale Lumber will easily do the trick… the goal is to slow the bad guys down, not to try and make it physically impossible to get in).

5. Install padlocks on your side and back gates.

6. Keep your jewellery, cash and other high value items out of your master bedroom, the first place crooks will look… read this post about the typical Westside burglary.

7. At your office, bolt down the servers and any key computers… at home, ensure that any data you really need is backed up and kept somewhere else (away from the computer itself).

8. Consider having a safe installed… but make sure that it gets installed by a professional locksmith. Do not put off having it actually bolted into a concrete pad!

9. Make your plasma screen TV a lot more difficult to remove by wrapping a bike lock through both the TV and wall bracket.

Again, this is far from a complete list. In fact, most of the postings on this blog will be suggestions and tips on how to apply the “five minute proofing” concept in dozens of different ways. I will be uploading more in-depth posts on each of the points above over the next few weeks.

The most important thing is that you always keep in mind what would be required in order to ensure that there is at least five minutes between an alarm and the possessions that you want to protect.

If you have any specific questions, please email me or post an anonymous comment by using the link below. By using the comment feature, other readers will be able to see both your question as well as my response.

UPDATE: Click below to watch a clip from a recent Preventing Burglary seminar where I explain Five Minute Proofing…

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8 Responses to “Five minute proofing”

Rick Says:

You can also purchase a large gun vault. Ours took 4 strong people to carry up to the second floor. Full (guns, jewelry, cameras, etc.) it weighs over 700 pounds. It’s just too big and heavy to move. To make it even “safer” we built a closet around it. So a crook would have to cut through a 4×4, rip it from the floor, and get it down two flights of stairs.

Roger Says:

A very nice post. I had this concept explained to me in the Army, but you very rarely seem to hear it from alarm installers.

One nice example I did see from a professional installer concerned security grilles. The normal arrangement is to have a security grille protecting a weaker inner door, which is alarmed. (There is little point trying to alarm the grille, because the ability to reach inside the grille makes bypassing too easy.) Unfortunately, this arrangement means that a burglar can defeat the grille at his leisure, kick in the inner door, and now has his 5 minutes available to stuff his swag with whatever he can grab.

At a small business belonging to one of my friends, the installer pointed out that this is all barse-ackwareds. Instead, the outer door is very flimsy — just barely weatherproof — with a very cheap lock. The security grille is *inside*, behind the outer door, and both are covered by a PIR motion sensor and a time lapse camera. This way, the burglar easily defeats the outer door (no problems, it is cheap to repair), the alarm sounds 15 seconds after the door opens, and the burglar then discovers that he is still facing the main security barrier with the alarm already sounding! Defeating a security grille is easy; defeating it in under 5 minutes, with the alarm strobe pulsing, siren screaming in your ear, and trying not to show your face to the camera, is extremely hard — especially as he most likely didn’t even know it was there until he opened the outer door! On the couple of occasions this has occurred, the camera just show the burglar reacting with surprise, giving up, and leaving empty-handed. Even if he does defeat the grille, he now has only a few seconds left to grab stuff before the response arrives.

The particularly elegant thing about this clever arrangement is that it is also actually *cheaper* than the usual arrangement. This is because the solid door serves only to keep the wind out, and to act as a purely legal obstacle that indicates a definitely criminal act. It can be the cheapest door you can find, fitted with a $12 night latch. It is of no consequence if the lock can be “loided” in 3 seconds flat, all that matters is that opening it without a key definitely means a crime is occurring. The security is provided by detection of this perimeter breaking, plus the delay caused by the main barrier.

mjagger Says:

Roger: thanks for the comment. Your story about how the exterior door shoudl be relatively easy to defeat, and all of the real security focused on the interior door is exactly correct. Anything being done to slow a burglar down after the alarm has sounded will add tremendous value to any security plan. Too often, people make the mistake of fortifying the wrong entry points and then relying on motion detectors or other security devices that are only detecting a successful entry… rather than during the initial ‘break’ which gives the police and/or response team a big headstart.

Roger Says:

@Rick:
Yes, a safe is an excellent delay mechanism. UL actually rates them in terms of the minimum delay they will impose on a skilled professional burglar.

However, at 700 lbs you do still need to bolt it to the floor (not clear from your post if you did this, although I think “rip it from the floor” means you did). AFter all, you took 4 guys to move it, but what if they have 6 guys and a tirfor jack? Your 4 guys probably tried not to damage the house, what if the burglars just throw it down the stairs?

I found that insurance companies usually have a minimum weight at which they allow you to skip floorbolts, and that weight is more like 2,000 lb rather than 700.

You would definitely need advice from a structural engineer before putting a 2,000 lb safe in an upper storey. Plus, those things are darn expensive if you don’t really need it! In contrast, a single 3/8″ bolt has a tensile strength of over 4,000 lb, and you generally use at least two.

Roger Says:

Oh, I just saw that Provident already has a very similar discussion about safes at:
http://www.providentsecurity.ca/blog/2006/04/does_an_800lb_s.html

Great site!

S.Wright Says:

Thank you so much for the info on this website. My insurance company gives a discount for either a loud-sounding or monitored alarm system. I knew a monitored system was pointless for my home from past experience, but I didn’t know how to start securing my home. Thankfully I found your website. I have not had a chance to read through everything, so you may have answered this already…What if my precious possessions are people? I don’t have a lot of material possessions by choice, but I do have children. We’ve recently relocated to a house with the Master bedroom separated from the children’s by the living room and kitchen. How do I make sure they are safe?

Alison Says:

Excellent article and responses. Re: Roger’s first comment, what about entry doors that have grilles AND glass? Wouldn’t that make for an immediate visual deterrent & have the same effect as the cheap outside / tough grille inside combo?
I think I remember seeing a product like this, I’ll try to find it again.

Alison Says:

I finally found the security door product I mentioned in the previous post. The residential site is Metalex Doors and the commercial site is Metalex Security.